martedì 22 agosto 2017

HISTORY OF FASHION ~ XVIIIth cent. fashionable caps (and straw hats).



Women's fashion has always wanted that the head had to be covered:
in accordance with the different styles, contexts and ages, never the hair of a lady, at least until the contemporary era, had to be shown in its entirety, whether it was for deference, elegance, or affectation ... and what better ultimate touch to a perfect Lady's toilet could exist if not a delicate cap made of the softest fabric and ornate with impalpable laces ?



Coming back to the end of the XVIIIth century, between 1770-1780 and 1800, the caps became very fashionable, made of linen or organza, often decorated with a lace-embroidered trim, which made them even more graceful, or with ribbons that made them more in theme with the colors and style of the dress; the Ladies of the time, especially those who belonged to the most modest social classes, used to wear them for all kinds of domestic tasks:




indispensable accessory, almost as if it were an apron, the cap, which gave the hostess a look of graceful elegance and made the feminine image more tidy and clean, was also used to hold the hair during the nighttime rest and then it was named DORMEUSE CAP.


But whatever it was the social class which a Lady belonged to, she never had to come out without first covering her head with her own cap, and in that case they were chosen those a little bit more elaborate and sophisticated, and it was in Summer that the 'ensamble' with the straw hats made them really delicious and irresistible: they were in vogue at the time the BERGERE STRAW HATS,


wide-brimmed straw hats virtually flat, or nearly, that were resting on the top of the head over the cap and sometimes tied under the chin or behind the 'full' head of the cap, and this 'marriage', which was really guessed, was able to grace the of every Lady dressing them; it was as if the cap had the task of picking up the hair and the straw hat to give the cap its most appropriate finishing touch.





They were quite simple to make, every housewife had the opportunity to use the appropriate paper models, and it was a shame that the fabric lost its turgor already during the very first wash and so, once it had fallen, the cap should be readily replaced with a new one.


The most well-to-do Ladies went to fashionable milliners which were far able to sew them but for a mere cap it was enough the mastery with the needle of a dressmaker, the one who sew the suit and could then create the most guessed ensemble perhaps with the same decorations.

What do you say, let's take a leap back in time and let's try one of them, maybe with one of those so lovely BERGERE STRAW HAT decorated with ribbons and flowers?

The season is just the most suitable ...!




I thank you all from the bottom of my heart for the enthusiasm 
which you always follow me with,
your comments fill my heart with such a joy!
And in the hope that I've been dealing with a subject 
that has entertained you with delight,
I wish you all my best,


see you soon ðŸ’•








P.S. I have to admit that being my month of August so very busy, I cannot afford the time for the web, to answer your comments, to visit your so lovely blogs, and therefore I prefer to take a short break and come back in September, I really can't manage and I do prefer not to bere instead of being like a phantom, dearest friend of mine, thank you once again !








Da sempre la moda femminile vuole che il capo sia coperto: 
in accordo con i diversi stili, contesti ed epoche, mai la capigliatura di una signora, almeno fino all'epoca contemporanea, si doveva mostrare nella sua interezza, sia che fosse per deferenza, per eleganza, o per vezzo ... e quale miglior tocco finale alla toilette di una perfetta Lady poteva esistere se non una delicata cuffia fatta del più morbido tessuto ed ornata di impalpabili pizzi ?



- immagine 1

- immagine 2



Tornando indietro alla fine del XVIII° secolo, ossia tra il 1770 -1780 ed il 1800, le cuffie divennero di gran moda, confezionate in lino o in organza, spesso decorate con un bordo in pizzo ricamato a mano, che le ingentiliva ulteriormente, o con nastri che le rendevano più in accordo con i colori e lo stile dell'abito; le Ladies del tempo, soprattutto coloro che appartenevano alle classi sociali più modeste, le usavano per svolgere ogni tipo di mansione domestica:



- immagine 3

- immagine 4

- immagine 5



accessorio irrinunciabile, quasi come poteva essere il grembiule, la cuffia, che conferiva alla padrona di casa un aspetto di graziosa eleganza e rendeva l'immagine femminile più ordinata e pulita, era altressì utilizzata per tenere in ordine i capelli durante il riposo notturno, ed allora prendeva il nome di DORMEUSE CAP.



- immagine 6



Ma qualsiasi fosse la classe sociale di appartenenza, una Lady non usciva senza aver prima coperto il capo con la propria cuffia, ed in questo caso venivano scelte quelle un po' più elaborate e sofisticate, ed era in estate che l'abbinamento con il cappello di paglia le rendeva davvero deliziose ed irresistibili: erano in auge al tempo i cosìddetti 
BERGERE STRAW HATS,



- immagine 7


cappellini di paglia a falde larghe praticamente piatti, o quasi, che venivano appoggiati sulla sommità del capo sopra la cuffia e legati talvolta sotto il mento oppure dietro alla parte 'piena' della cuffia e tale connubio, davvero indovinato, era in grado di aggraziare il volto di ogni Lady che li vestisse; era come se alla cuffia spettasse il compito di raccogliere la chioma e al cappello di paglia quello di conferire alla cuffia la propria più adeguata rifinitura e di personalizzare 'la mise'.



- immagine 8

- immagine 9

- immagine 10

- immagine 11



Esse erano piuttosto semplici da confezionare, ogni massaia del tempo ne aveva la possibilità ricorrendo agli appropriati modelli in carta, peccato che il tessuto perdesse turgore già durante i primissimi lavaggi e quindi, una volta afflosciatasi, la cuffia dovesse essere prontamente sostituita con una nuova.



- immagine 12



Le Ladies più benestanti si recavano dalle modiste di fiducia per farsele confezionare, ma per una semplice cuffia era sufficiente la maestria con l'ago di una sarta, la stessa che confezionava l'abito e che poteva quindi creare 'l'ensemble' più indovinato magari con le sue stesse decorazioni.

Che dite, facciamo un salto indietro nel tempo e ne proviamo una anche noi, magari con uno BERGERE STRAW HAT decorato con nastri e fiori ?

La stagione è proprio la più adatta ... !






Vi ringrazio con tutto il cuore per l'entusiasmo con cui sempre mi seguite,
i vostri commenti colmano il mio cuore di una tale gioia !
E nella speranza di aver trattato un argomento che vi abbia intrattenuti con diletto,
vi auguro ogni bene,


a presto ðŸ’•








P.S. Devo ammettere che essendo il mio mese di agosto così tanto ricco di impegni, a stento riesco a concedermi il tempo per il web, per rispondere ai vostri commenti, per farvi vista e perciò preferisco prendermi una breve sosta dandovi appuntamento a settembre, grazie ancora.

24 commenti:

  1. All those sweet little lace numbers are so pretty. How fashions change with each generation. I don't know how I would fare with the wearing of one of those little lace concoctions daily...BUT...I do love the straw hats. Those I could happily wear each day whilst out and about in the sunshine.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Kim
      my Dearest !
      I also love straw hats and our so hard sun here during these days make me think about these BERGERE STRAW HATS which are so very lovely to me too ... I also would really love to wear one of them to protect myself when I work outside !

      Wishing you much gladness and love
      for the remainder of your week,
      I'm sending blessings across the many miles ✿⊱╮

      Elimina
  2. Daniela:
    acho o uso do chapéu , uma necessidade.
    não sei porque não é mais importante e as pessoas não usam mais.

    moro num país onde grande parte é tropical, (onde moro é subtropical), e a incidência de raios solares é muito grande. Nada mais sensato que usar chapéu, mas ninguém usa.
    acho que isso é bom para a indústria de protetor solar.
    são caros e todo mundo usa, o lucro é imenso.
    tenho meus chapéus de palha e uso. Sou conhecida como a mulher do chapéu.
    muito lindo seu post, imagens muito belas.
    grande abraço e boa semana.
    :o)

    RispondiElimina
  3. While the straw hats would not last long in my line of work, i can see how having a cap could keep my hair out of the way and tidier.

    RispondiElimina
  4. Hello, Dany! Wonderful post on the fashions and hats from centuries ago. The caps and straw hats are pretty. I would probably enjoy a straw hat to protect my head from the sun. I hope you enjoy your break. Happy Tuesday, enjoy your day!

    RispondiElimina
  5. Come commentare questo splendido post, cara Daniela?
    Sospiro, riguardo le immagini e godo di questi momenti di serenità che mi donano i tuoi approfondimenti e la dolce musica in sottofondo.
    Grazie, a presto Susanna

    RispondiElimina
  6. The hats are all beautiful, dear Daniela! Thank you so much for sharing, my cherished friend.

    RispondiElimina
  7. I'm so glad I didn't have to wear these. They are pretty, but I'm just not a hat person. Beautiful shots.

    Have a fabulous day, Daniela. ♥♥♥

    RispondiElimina
  8. affascinanti i copricapo di un tempo, un po ritornano in voga anche ai nostri giorni, magari nelle occasioni più speciali..
    bello questo viaggio nei costumi che cara dany hai saputo proporci anche stavolta.
    t auguro una felice serata di fine estate
    daniela

    RispondiElimina
  9. Lovely hats, beautiful photos, like a trip in time! Nice to find you! Sotiria

    RispondiElimina
  10. Oh sweet friend, what a beautiful post. The hats are simply lovely and oh, the lace! Such sweet and feminine things {{smiles}}

    Thinking of you, dear one. Love and hugs to you!

    RispondiElimina
  11. It is really interesting to me that even though they were wearing a straw hat they also had to still wear the caps...some of them are so pretty with the laces and all, I would need many on hand, I get a bit warm when wearing hats :)
    Hope things slow down for you soon and that you enjoy the last few weeks of summer!

    RispondiElimina
  12. All of these are so very beautiful, Dany.
    If it were me, it would be a pleasure to cover my head with one of these, and I think they would be wonderful to make also.
    Happy day to you, sweet friend.
    Sending you hugs from across the ocean.
    xo.

    RispondiElimina
  13. I know I would love to live in a time where every lady tied her back and wore a cap of some sort. It would sure help with those days when my hair looks less than perfect, which is most days! So very nice to visit after a while of being away. I hope you are well and that you are enjoying writing your book.
    Sending Love,
    Andrea

    RispondiElimina
  14. Beautiful and interesting post, Daniela. I love the great vintage and romantic photos. Kisses, my friend.

    RispondiElimina
  15. Dany, come sempre quando passo da te imparo qualcosa di nuovo!!
    Grazie mille per questo bel post!
    Ti auguro una piacevole serata.
    Bacio

    RispondiElimina
  16. Dearest Dani, yet another sublime post from you. The little Dormeuse Caps were indeed a pretty item. As for straw hats, well we wear them often in Summer here. So ladylike frippery is alive and well in my part of the world! Love, Mimi xxx

    RispondiElimina
  17. What a lovely post. Beautiful pictures and information, it is interesting that caps and hats were not just fashion, but a culture statement, as well as expressing the station of the lady. Lovely, thank you, Sandi

    RispondiElimina
  18. I loved this very much! I always like to learn about the hats of those times. So pretty. I wish we did things like this today.

    RispondiElimina
  19. Hello dear Dani,

    This is such a pretty post. I love all the pretty hats.. Feminine with lots of functionality. These were such different times. Civility, manners and culture were the norm.

    Thank you for sharing such beauty with us.

    Hugs,

    Janet
    rosemary-thyme.blogspot.com

    RispondiElimina
  20. Bellissimo Post, grazie Daniela!
    Nives

    RispondiElimina
  21. I love hats and find them intriguing and beautiful but don't seem to be able to wear them all that well myself. Loved your walk through the head coverings of various times.

    I understand what you mean about a frantic or busy time of year. I have a feeling you might be too busy to truly ENJOY your break but I hope you can relax a bit! We'll look forward to your wonderful posts whenever they appear!

    RispondiElimina
  22. I feel the same way about visiting and commenting, so then I put off blogging. Lovely post as always. My daughter loves hats and bought a stack of wool berets in Paris. xoxo Su

    RispondiElimina
  23. i love hats and head coverings and enjoyed reading this history. i hope you are well. sending love. xo

    RispondiElimina

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